Slow Burn – Decoder Ring: The Great Parmesan Cheese Debate

Intro

In this episode of Slow Burn, the podcast explores the fascinating history and debate surrounding Parmesan cheese. Host Alberto Grandi dives into the origins of this quintessentially Italian food and uncovers surprising facts about its creation, authenticity, and evolution. Join him as he takes you on a journey through time and across continents to unravel the secrets behind Parmesan cheese.

Main Takeaways

Traditions and Inventions in Italian Cuisine

• Alberto Grandi studies how traditions are invented in Italian cuisine and has debunked the history of many quintessentially Italian foods.
• Pasta carbonara was actually invented by an Italian chef in 1944 using ingredients from the US Army.

The Parmesan Cheese Debate

• Grandi claims that Parmesan cheese made in Wisconsin is more authentic than what you might get in Italy.
• Parmesan Regiano is a brand, and Parmesan is just a cheese.

The Rich History of Parmesan Cheese

• Parmesan cheese has a rich history involving intrepid immigrants, lucrative businesses, and the craving for tradition and identity.
• Parmesan was already 600 years old when Wisconsin became a state in 1848.
• Parmesan was first made in the Po River Valley in Emilia Romagna, Italy.

The Traditional Process of Making Parmesan

• The traditional manner in which Parmesan is made involves many quaint aspects, such as a cutting tool called a spinoe and a special metal hammer used to gauge the aging process.
• An official Parmigiano Regiano must be aged for at least two years and many are aged for longer, resulting in a coarse, almost grainy cheese, flecked with white crystals, that has a salty, nutty intensity.

The Evolution of Parmesan Cheese

• Italian immigrants in America started making cheese similar to Parmigiano around 100 years ago in Wisconsin.
• Parmigiano had an evolution that made it what it is today, while Wisconsin Parmesan stayed true to the original recipe.

The Rise of Wisconsin Parmesan

• Sartori, a Wisconsin company founded in 1939, makes Parmesan that is smaller and has a black rind, and appears to have a different texture than contemporary Italian Parmesan-o-Reggiano.
• Italian immigrants in America were inventive and had business acumen, leading to the creation of Wisconsin Parmesan.

Summary

The Origins and Authenticity of Parmesan Cheese

Alberto Grandi, an expert in Italian cuisine, challenges the traditional narratives surrounding Parmesan cheese. He reveals that pasta carbonara, often considered a classic Italian dish, was actually invented during World War II by an Italian chef using ingredients from the US Army. Grandi also claims that Parmesan cheese made in Wisconsin is more authentic than its Italian counterpart. While Parmesan Regiano is a protected brand, Parmesan is simply a type of cheese. This debate raises questions about the authenticity of food traditions and how they are invented.

The Rich History and Traditional Process of Parmesan Cheese

Parmesan cheese has a long and fascinating history, dating back 600 years before Wisconsin became a state. It originated in the Po River Valley in Emilia Romagna, Italy. The traditional process of making Parmesan involves unique tools and techniques, such as the spinoe cutting tool and a metal hammer used to gauge the aging process. Official Parmigiano Regiano must be aged for at least two years, resulting in a coarse, salty, and nutty cheese with white crystals.

The Evolution and Rise of Wisconsin Parmesan

Italian immigrants in America, specifically in Wisconsin, began making cheese similar to Parmigiano around 100 years ago. This cheese, known as Wisconsin Parmesan, stayed true to the original recipe while Parmigiano evolved over time. Sartori, a Wisconsin company founded in 1939, produces a unique version of Parmesan with a smaller size, black rind, and different texture compared to contemporary Italian Parmesan-o-Reggiano. The success of Wisconsin Parmesan can be attributed to the inventive nature and business acumen of Italian immigrants.

Conclusion

The Great Parmesan Cheese Debate delves into the complex history, authenticity, and evolution of this beloved Italian cheese. It challenges traditional narratives and highlights the role of immigrant communities in shaping food traditions. Whether it’s the invention of pasta carbonara or the rise of Wisconsin Parmesan, this episode showcases the dynamic nature of culinary traditions and how they adapt to new environments. Parmesan cheese serves as a testament to the enduring power of tradition and the diverse tastes that create authenticity.